Aquarium Fish Diseases

Constipation fish
Non-infectious Diseases

Some fish are more susceptible to constipation than others. Usually fish with more compressed bodies like angelfish and silver dollars. Symptoms are loss of appetite and swelling of the body. The cause is almost always diet.
Usually, with a change of diet, the condition rights itself. But in stubborn cases try dried food that has been soaked in medicinal paraffin oil. Glycerol or castor oil may also be used. If the diet is changed on a regular basis and live foods offered occasionally this condition may never occur.
Physical Fish Injuries
Non-infectious Diseases

Even in the best of aquariums under the supervision of the most astute aquarists, injuries occur. Some times a bully fish is the culprit, or sharp decor. Sometimes there appears to be no explanation. As in the human world, accidents happen.
If the cause of the injury is obvious, it should be remedied. Then the injury should be treated. The injury should be touched with 2% Mercurochrome, which is supplied commercially. Also, depending on the fish’s tolerance to water conditions, keeping the fish in slightly acid water should speed recovery (pH 6.6). Minor injuries, if the water conditions are good, should just heal themselves.

Congenital Abnormalities
Non-infectious Diseases

Abnormalities usually occur when professional breeders are trying to acquire certain strains in breeds. Most are beneficial abnormalities like albinism or extra finnage. But undesirable abnormalities crop up and are usually culled out by the breeder. However, such abnormalities sometimes happen in the amateur aquarium.
If the abnormality is not life threatening or degrades the quality of life, just leave it be and brag to your friends about the unusual inhabitant. Otherwise, the fish should be humanely destroyed.

Tumors
Non-infectious Diseases

Tumors can be caused by a virus or a cancer, but most tumors are genetic. The genetic tumors may be caused from too much hybridization, common amongst professional breeders.
Practically all tumors are untreatable. If the fish is in distress, it should be destroyed.

Lymphocystis
Viral Diseases

Symptoms: Nodular white swellings (cauliflower) on fins or body.

Lymphocystis is a virus and, being a virus, affects the cells of the fish. It usually manifests itself as abnormally large white lumps (cauliflower) on the fins or other parts of the body. It can be infectious, but is usually not fatal. Unfortunately, there is no cure. Fortunately, this is a rare disease.
There are two suggested treatments. One treatment is to remove and destroy the infected fish as soon as possible. The other treatment is to simply separate the infected fish for several months and hope for remission, which usually does occur.

Bacterial Diseases

Tail Rot & Fin Rot
Bacterial Diseases

Symptoms: Disintegrating fins that may be reduced to stumps, exposed fin rays, blood on edges of fins, reddened areas at base of fins, skin ulcers with gray or red margins, cloudy eyes.

Tail and fin rot appears to be a bacterial infection of the tail and/or fins and may be caused by generally poor conditions, bully, or fin nipping tankmates. If aquarium conditions are not good an infection can be caused from a simple injury to the fins/tail. Tuberculosis can lead to tail and fin rot. Basically, the tail and/or fins become frayed or lose color. Over time the affected area slowly breaks down.
First, attempt to ascertain the cause. Then treat accordingly. Also, treat the water or fish with antibiotics. If added to the water, use 20 - 30 mg per liter. If the fish is to be treated add an antibiotic to the food. With flake food, use about 1% of antibiotic and carefully mix it in. If you keep the fish hungry they should eagerly eat the mixture before the antibiotic dissipates. Antibiotics usually come in 250 mg capsules. If added to 25 grams of flake food, one capsule should be enough to treat dozens of fish. A good antibiotic is chloromycetin (chloramphenicol) or tetracycline. If you feed your fish frozen foods or chopped foods, try to use the same ratio with mixing. As a last resort add at most 10 mg per liter of water. Also, if unkempt conditions are the suspected cause, correct it.

Scale Protrusion
Bacterial Diseases

Symptoms: Protruding scales without body bloat.

Scale protrusion is essentially a bacterial infection of the scales and/or body. A variety of bacterium could be the culprit here, as can unkempt aquarium conditions.
An effective treatment is to add an antibiotic to the food. With flake food, use about 1% of antibiotic and carefully mix it in. If you keep the fish hungry they should eagerly eat the mixture before the antibiotic dissipates. Antibiotics usually come in 250 mg capsules. If added to 25 grams of flake food, one capsule should be enough to treat dozens of fish. A good antibiotic is chloromycetin (chloramphenicol). Or use tetracycline. If you feed your fish frozen foods or chopped foods, try to use the same ratio with mixing. As a last resort add at most 10 mg per liter of water. Also, if unkempt conditions are the suspected cause, correct it.

Dropsy
Bacterial Diseases

Symptoms: Bloating of the body, protruding scales.

Dropsy is caused from a bacterial infection of the kidneys, causing fluid accumulation or renal failure. The fluids in the body build up and cause the fish to bloat up and the scales to protrude. It appears to only cause trouble in weakened fish and possibly from unkempt aquarium conditions.
An effective treatment is to add an antibiotic to the food. With flake food, use about 1% of antibiotic and carefully mix it in. If you keep the fish hungry they should eagerly eat the mixture before the antibiotic dissipates. Antibiotics usually come in 250 mg capsules. If added to 25 grams of flake food, one capsule should be enough to treat dozens of fish. A good antibiotic is chloromycetin (chloramphenicol). Or use tetracycline. If you feed your fish frozen foods or chopped foods, try to use the same ratio with mixing. As a last resort add at most 10 mg per liter of water. Also, if unkempt conditions are the suspected cause, correct it.

Tuberculosis
Bacterial Diseases

Symptoms: Emaciation, hollow belly, possibly sores.

Tuberculosis is caused by the bacterium Mycobacterium piscium. Fish infected with tuberculosis may become lethargic, hollow bellied, pale, show skin ulcers and frayed fins, have fin and scale loss, and loss of appetite. Yellowish or darker nodules may appear on the eyes or body and may deform the fish.
The main causes for this disease appears to be over crowding in unkempt conditions; ie. poor water quality. All fish species could be susceptible though some are more susceptible than others. Those most susceptible are the labyrinth air breathers like the Gouramis, Bettas, and Paradise Fish. Others include Neon Tetras, Discus, and the Ram Cichlid.

There is no absolute treatment. However the most effective treatment known for this disease is to treat with Kanamycin and Vitamin B-6 for 30 days. Kanamycin can be purchased at your local fish store. Liquid baby vitamins work well as s Vitamin B-6 source. They are available at your local pharmacy. Add one drop per every 5 gallons of aquarium water during treatment.
If the treatment is ineffective, the best thing to do is destroy the infected fish.
If either unkempt conditions or over crowding are the suspected cause, correct the condition.
It is possible for humans to contract this disease so we recommend using caution when dealing with it. Humans are very rarely are at risk from aquariums though. It is more common to contract this disease from public swimming areas or as a food contaminant.

Mouth Fungus
Bacterial Diseases

Symptoms: White cottony patches around the mouth.

Mouth Fungus is so called because it looks like a fungus attack of the mouth. It is actually caused from the bacterium Chondrococcus columnaris. It shows up first as a gray or white line around the lips and later as short tufts sprouting from the mouth like fungus. The toxins produced and the inability to eat will be fatal unless treated at an early stage.
Penicillin at 10,000 units per liter is a very effective treatment. Treat with a second dose in two days. Or use chloromycetin, 10 to 20 mg per liter, with a second dose in two days.

Fungal Diseases

Ichthyosporidium
Fungal Diseases

Symptoms: Sluggishness, loss of balance, hollow belly, external cysts and sores.

Ichthyosporidium is a fungus, but it manifests itself internally. It primarily attacks the liver and kidneys, but it spreads everywhere else. The symptoms vary. The fish may become sluggish, lose balance, show hollow bellies, and eventually show external cysts or sores. By then it is usually too late for the fish.
Treatment is difficult. Phenoxethol added to food as a 1% solution may be effective. Chloromycetin added to the food has also been effective. But both of these treatments, if not watched with caution, could pose a risk to your fish. It is best, if diagnosed soon enough, to destroy the affected fish before the disease can spread.

Fungus (Saprolegnia)
Fungal Diseases

Symptoms: Tufts of dirty, cotton-like growth on the skin, can cover large areas of the fish, fish eggs turn white.

Fungal attacks always follow some other health problem like parasitic attack, injury, or bacterial infection. The symptoms are a gray or whitish growth in and on the skin and/or fins of the fish. Eventually, if left untreated, these growths will become cottony looking. The fungus, if left untreated, will eventually eat away on the fish until it finally dies.
After ascertaining the initial cause of the fungus and remedying that, use a solution of phenoxethol at 1% in distilled water. Add 10 ml of this solution per liter of aquarium water. Repeat after a few days if needed, but only once more as three treatments could be dangerous to aquarium inhabitants. If the symptoms are severe the fish can be removed from the aquarium and swabbed with a cloth that has been treated with small amounts of povidone iodine or mercurochrome.
For attacks on fish eggs, most breeders will use a solution of methylene blue adding 3 to 5 mg/l as a preventative measure after the eggs are laid.

Parasitic Diseases

Leeches
Parasitic Diseases

Symptoms: Leeches are visible on the fish’s skin.

Leeches are external parasites and affix themselves on the body, fins, or gills of the fish. Usually they appear as heart shaped worms (they are just curled up) attached to the fish. They are usually introduced to the aquarium via plants or snails.
Since leeches are sucking and borrowing into the surface of the fish, removal with forceps can cause great damage, if not death, to the fish. If the fish is bathed in a 2.5 percent solution of salt for 15 minutes, most of the leeches should just fall off. Those that do not will be affected enough to remove with forceps with minimal damage. Another treatment is to add Trichlorofon at 0.25 mg/l to the aquarium. Live plants should be removed and treated with potassium permanganate at 5 mg/l before replanting.

Nematoda
Parasitic Diseases

Symptoms: Worms hanging from the anus.

Nematodes (threadworms) infect just about anywhere in the body but only shows itself when they hang out of the anus. A heavy infestation causes hollow bellies. Lighter infestations usually cause no problems with the fish.
Short of destroying the fish, which is easier, two treatments have been suggested. First treatment; soak the food in parachlorometaxylenol and give the fish a bath or treat the aquarium with 10 ml per liter. The bath should last for several days. Second treatment; find special food containing thiabendazole as a nematode (threadworm) cure and hope the fish will eat it.

Flukes
Parasitic Diseases

Symptoms: The fish scrapes itself against objects, rapid gill movement, mucus covering the gills or body, the gills or fins may be eaten away, the skin may become reddened.

There are many species of flukes, which are flatworms about 1 mm long, and several symptoms that are visible. They infest gills and skin much like ich, but the difference can be seen with a hand lens. You should be able to see movement and possibly eye spots, which is not found in ich. Gill flukes will eventually destroy the gills thus killing the fish. Symptoms of a heavy infestations are pale fish with drooping fins, rapid respiration, glancing off aquarium decor, and /or hollow bellies.
Treatment can best be done with a 10 to 30 minute bath in 10 mg per liter of potassium permanganate. Or treat the whole tank with 2 mg per liter, but this method is messy and dyes the water.

Ergasilus
Parasitic Diseases

Symptoms: The fish scrapes itself against objects, whitish-green threads hang out of the fish’s gills.

This parasite is like the anchor worm, but is smaller and attacks the gills instead of the skin. Treatment can best be done with a 10 to 30 minute bath in 10 mg per liter of potassium permanganate. Or treat the whole tank with 2 mg per liter, but this method is messy and dyes the water.

Protozoan Diseases

African Bloat or “Malawi Bloat”
Protozoan Diseases

Symptoms: The first sign of ‘bloat’ is loss of appetite which is then followed by swelling of the abdomen, labored breathing, listlessness, reclusiveness, possible red striations on the body, and stringy white feces.

There seems to be no explainable rationale as to its cause of bloat. Once a fish becomes afflicted it is often fatal. A fish that is not eating must be treated immediately or it can quickly become incurable and die. Though It is not certain what this disease is, it is generally believed to be caused by a protozoal parasite complicated by bacterial infection. Bloat is a serious malady often associated with African cichlids especially those from Lake Malawi, thus the common name ‘Malawi Bloat’. The Tropheus species from Lake Tanganyika are also very susceptible.

The most common cause of this disease is stress and the first sign if illness is not eating. Stress can be caused by such things as transport, netting, poor water quality, insufficient diet, over feeding, and a lack of hiding places. Other causes, that are easily remedied, are an improper diet and adding too much salt to the water. Prevention is of utmost importance, and It is possibly to cure a fish if treated right away.

Following are some techniques aquarists use:

Any new specimens you obtain can have bloat or will often soon develop it. When you first acquire them try to provide them with the same food that the dealer was feeding, and then wean them onto a good vegetable based diet; Spirulina flake and pellet.
Some will soak the food in dissolved metronidazol and feed them that for the first few days when first obtained. Seachem makes a metronidazol that can be bound to food when used with their Focus product.
A good vegetable based diet is important.
A healthy group of fish will eat with gusto. But even though they can be very active feeders it is important to not overfeed them. Keep an eye on them, and if one is not eating with vigor some aquarists will then treat the tank with Clout.
One author says that they will segregate an ailing fish the second they see signs of not eating, and then will do water changes every day for 5 days in the main aquarium.

Chilodonella
Protozoan Diseases

Symptoms: Dulling of the colors due to excessive slime, fraying of the fins, weakness, gill damage

This disease causes a blue white cloudiness on the skin and attacks the gills. Later the skin may be broken down and the gills destroyed. The fish may behave like they have irritations, by glancing off aquarium decor, they may have clamped fins and difficulty breathing.
Acriflavine (trypaflavine) may be used at 1% solution (5 ml per liter). As acriflavine can sterilize fish, the water should be gradually changed after a cure has been effected. It also helps to raise the temperature to about 80º F.

Glugea and Henneguya
Protozoan Diseases

Symptoms: Similar to Lymphocystis, the fish will have nodular white swellings on fins or body.

Glugea and Henneguya are sporozoans that form large cysts on the fish’s body and release spores. Luckily, these diseases are very rare. The fish bloat up, with tumor like protrusions, and eventually die.
No cure, as of yet. It is best to destroy the infected fish before the spores can spread.

Neon Tetra Disease
Protozoan Diseases

Symptoms: Whitened areas deep into the fishes’ flesh. Muscle degeneration leading to abnormal swimming movements.

So named for the fish it was first recognized on. It is caused by the sporozoa Plistophora hyphessobryconis. Even though it is named after Neon Tetras, it can appear on other fish. Whitish patches appear as if just below the skin. In Neon Tetras it destroys the bright blue-green neon stripe. The organisms form cysts which burst and release spores. The spores penetrate further and form more cysts. Eventually, the spores migrate to the water and are eaten by other fish in the food. These spores migrate into the digestive tract, then the muscles, and a new infection starts.
There is no known cure. It is best to destroy the infected fish and clean the aquarium.

Marine Ich (Cryptocaryon irritans)
Protozoan Diseases

Symptoms: Salt-like specks on the body/fins. Rubbing or scratching against decor or substrate, Excessive slime. Problems breathing (ich invades the gills), Frayed fins, Loss of appetite, Cloudy eyes, Abnormal swimming.

Marine ich or white spot disease is one of the most common maladies experienced in the marine aquarium, with the other being Marine Velvet. This protozoa has four phases to its life, lasting up to 38 days depending on the temperature of the environment. This parasite affects marine and brackish fish.
Aquarists are most familiar with the stage where the protozoa is infesting the host, the small white spots similar to a sprinkling of salt on the fish’s body and fins. Unfortunately this visual clue is also the reason for difficulty in eradicating marine ich. Once the parasite has left the host’s body many aquarists believe their fish is cured and the problem is solved and so they cease treatment, only to have another larger reoccurrence.

For eradication treatment must be carried through to completion, so understanding the parasite’s life cycle will greatly increase your chances of success. The life cycle is outlined here:

Trophont phase - when the parasite is growing in the skin or gills of the fish it appears as small white nodules, and the fish begins showing signs of irritation. It will spend 5 to 7 days (depending on the temperature) feeding on the fish. Once it reaches maturity it leaves the fish, reportedly after the lights go out. It is now called a protomont.
Protomont phase - the protomont will free swim or will crawl about the substrate for several hours (2 to 18 hours) producing a sticky wall around itself with which it is able to adhere to a surface. Once it adheres it begins to turn into a cyst and is now called a tomont.
Tomont phase - at this stage there is rapid cell divisions occurring, resulting in hundreds of daughter parasites that are called tomites. This stage can last anywhere from 3 to 28 days. Eventually the tomites hatch and begin swimming about looking for a host and are now called theronts.
Theront phase - newly hatched, they are swimming about looking for a host which they must find within 24 hours or they will die. Once a host is found they turn into trophonts and the whole cycle begins anew.

The life cycle of this parasite can vary dramatically and is dependent on temperature, they cycle faster in a warmer environment. Ideally the parasite would be eliminated while on the host or shortly after leaving the host. However, those that are buried in the gills are immune to treatment until they leave the fish. This along with the variability of the cycle makes it difficult to treat in a timely manner.
So to rid the aquarium of this protozoa, it is recommended that you use a combination of water changes and chemical treatment, a multiple number of times.

Chemical treatments for this disease include using copper, formalin, or a combination of copper and formalin. Follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer.
Natural methods include either a quarantine tank with a low salinity (hyposalinity) or large frequent water changes. For low salinity keep the specific gravity of the water at approximately 1.009-1.010 with temperatures of 78 - 80° F (25 - 27° C) for 14 days. A danger with with using low salinity is in re-acclimating the fish to a higher salinity. You must be able to accurately measure the salinity and must increase it very slowly. For the water change method, replace 50% of the aquarium water daily for 14 days. This is perfectly safe method as long as temperature and salinity are the same, and this will remove the parasites while in a free swimming stage.

Reportably some healthy fish can develop a limited immunity. This immunity is short-lived lasting only about six months and may not be a total immunity, being a small amount of infestation rather than extensive infestation.

Cyphotilapia frontosa


Cyphotilapia frontosa is a fish from the cichlid family native to Lake Tanganyika in East Africa. C. frontosa is endemic to Lake Tanganyika and is widespread in all areas of the lake. Unlike many cichlid species C. frontosa is a pelagic fish and rarely ventures close to the shoreline. The species generally resides at greater depths (30-50 metres sub-surface) than most other cichlids and rises to shallow waters in the early morning to feed on shoaling fish such as Cyprichromis species. C. frontosa can grow to a significant size with even captive specimens potentially growing to 35cm in length. The fish can live for over 25 years.

C. frontosa has distinct markings with 5-7 black vertical bars adorning a white or blue body and trailing fins with a distinct blue hue. The species also develops a nuchal hump that more pronounced in older specimens. C. frontosa is a sexually monomorphic species, although the hump is occasionally more pronounced in males. As is the case with many of the cichlid species found in Lake Tanganyika, parallel evolution between distinct breeding colonies has resulted in several different colour variants developing.
The king of Lake Tanganyika, this showpiece can attain lengths over 12 inches! "Fronts," as they're affectionally called, are by far the most popular tanganyikan cichlid. It's not just their impressive size or elaborate fins alone that make them so popular among aquarists, but rather their amiable and outgoing personality (not to mention that good quality fry are always in demand). This fish is like a puppy - after a short acclimization period, they'll eat right out of your hand. Wild specimens are just as gregarious as tank-raised individuals, which is a rare trait among piscovores. Despite being less active and non-aggressive, they excitably greet their owner with the same type of enthusiasm as mbuna.

Cyphotilapia frontosa ''Kigoma'' maleFrontosa are characterized by a white (or blue) body, adorned with either 6 or 7 black, vertical bars. Adults develop a large cephalic hump, with that of males usually being more pronounced. The hump is a large fatty deposit that rests atop a dorsal muscle that tends to extend forward. The hump develops and increases in size with age and is usually a sign of sexual fecundity. Their fins become more elaborate with age as well. There is nothing quite like the sight of a 10-year old frontosa with his long fins waving gracefully below and behind him.

Frontosa are found in many different locations in the lake, but always in the deeper portions along the coastline - 10-50 m (30-170 ft). Like many sedentary animals (e.g., tortoise), Fronts have an unusually long life span of over 25 years. This sedentary behavior has probably been the impetus for the development of several geographic variants. The ones pictured on this page are all from Burundi. Other geographical races come from Kigoma, Bulu Point, Mpimbwe, Samazi, Kasanga, Chaitika, Kapampa, Kavala, and Zaire. For a detailed description of their differences, visit the Frontosa Variant Map. Many other varieties exist, but for now they are considered to be junior races of the ones listed above and documented on the Frontosa Variant Map.

Cyphotilapia frontosa is a monomorphic species with little or no difference between males and females. Males usually have a larger hump than females, but this characteristic is by no means a garauntee. Frontosa can only be sexed reliably by venting, and even this method cannot always be trusted. Venting frontosa accurately requires experience. Males also tend to be larger - they can grow to over 12 inches while females are lucky to reach 10 inches - but this too is not always true. In short, be cautious of any one ready to sell you sexed frontosa; make sure they're experienced and reputable.


As already mentioned, C. frontosa is a lethargic and slow-moving fish. Even in the lake they don't expend much energy in hunting down their food. Nature has endowed them with a unique trait which gives them an advantage over their prey - Fronts are nocturnal feeders and don't require much light to wake up.

Cyphotilapia frontosa ''Kigoma'' femaleFish make up the majority of their diet, Cyprichromis species being their primary target. Cyps spend the day in large schools (numbering in tens of thousands) in the upper water column, but at dusk, they descend to the bottom where they hug the substratum. Fronts, still awake and alert, easily scoop the unsuspecting Cyps up by the mouthful. Because of the ease with which they are able to feast upon the Cyps, frontosa don't have to spend much energy chasing their food, a chase they would certainly lose to the agile Cyps during the day.

In the tank, this cichlid can be fed small feeder fish (live or frozen), mysis, shrimp, krill, and worms. Pellets are also a good food, but flakes should be avoided after they reach 4 or 5 inches in total length. Flakes will either go ignored or get too messy and are not adequate to bring them into breeding condition.

In the wild, frontosa live in large groups called colonies. In the aquarium, they should also be kept in larger groups, although they can be kept successfully in groups as small as four individuals (1 male:3 females). You'll have the best luck keeping only one adult male, and if your colony is larger, a second, subdominant male who will eventually replace the alpha-male. If you're growing your Fronts up, the "best" method is to acquire 12-15 individuals (all unrelated and from the same race) and put them in a tank of their own.

Of these 12 or 15 fry, half will probably be female. It will be a solid three or four years before they will reach sexual maturity, so we have time on our hands, and what we want to do with this time is weed out the males. As time progresses, the largest of the group will be a male. Sell this male off. Cyphotilapia frontosa ''Kigoma''In another six months' time, do this again, selling or trading the largest Front. Repeat this practice every six months or so until you are left with five or six Fronts. By now, all your males should be gone. You can verify this by venting them (i.e., checking their tubes). After three to four years time, they'll be ready to start spawning. When they are, buy yourself a beautiful, adult male and make him your stud. It is not hard to find large, healthy adults. Wild-caught males are usually available as well, at reasonable prices. The reason for doing this is to ensure that your male is of different stock than your females, which will help to ensure good fry with fewer deformities. This is important if you plan to sell your fry.

The tank should be decorated simply with a few rocks, which are important to give these shy cichlids a sense of security. Don't overdo it with lots of rocks or sharp rocks. These fish move slow until they get spooked - then they are lightning fast and very clumsy. The alpha-male will be your largest and oddly enough, shyest of the group. He will need a cave, but the females do alright in the open. While not always a success aethestically, clay pots can be used to create caves. Lace rock works well as does slate if placed on its side to create alleys and secretive coves. 40 gallons will work well as a grow-out tank. For a colony of 10 adults, a 125-gallon tank or bigger is recommended.

Patience is necessary if you plan to breed this wonderful fish. Three to four years are required for a 1-inch fish to reach sexual maturity. Sexually active males turn Cyphotilapia frontosa ''Kigoma''blue, especially the snout region. He will select an open, yet secluded area which is only weakly defended. When he has a willing female's attention, he will slowly pass over the spot with his fins folded. Spawning is very inconspicuous - no shaking, no flashing of fins, or sparring with conspecifics. As the male passes over the selected spot, he releases his milt, showing the female where to go. Some have hypothesized that the milt may serve to encourage the female to lay her eggs. She will then pass over the spot in the same manner as the male, slowly and with fins folded. After dropping an egg, she will back up - not turn around - to pick it up. She will repeat this procedure, "rocking back and forth" four to six times. Apparently, the male's milt is powerful enough to fertilize eggs several minutes after it is released.

Broods number anywhere from 20 to 50 fry, and maybe even as high as 80, depending upon the condition of the female and the variant. Females will hold for a period of 5 weeks. Fry should be separated and raised apart from the adults. Any small fish (under 3 inches) is regarded as food by adult frontosa.


Many times we find ourselves in the old predicament of where we are going to put these fish!? I have never had that problem with Frontosa (unless it was their fry). I can't see myself not keeping these regal fish. Since I have never been to the lake, and I am not a ichthyologist, I will speak as a hobbyist from first hand information and from the experiences of other seasoned hobbyists.

Cyphotilapia Frontosa, in my experience, is not picky of water conditions. If the water is above neutral in pH, about 76 degrees, slightly hard, and has a bit of Epsom salt and regular table salt, they grow and breed well. They are not fussy eaters. I prefer flake for the small ones and pellets for the larger ones. I like to supplement them with brine shrimp and live feeders. They like worms, shrimp, native fish fillets (Northern Pike was really appreciated), heck, anything that lives in the water is game. Enough said about water and food. If you don't know about water changes, filtration, etc., pick up a copy of Tropical Fish Hobbyist from you local aquarium store.

The males can grow to be over a foot. The females don't grow quite that big, 10" is a huge female. They are unusual for a cichlid that is a predator, in that they are gregarious. So, unlike the most of the large New World cichlids, a group of adults (a colony) can be kept. In fact, that's what they seem to prefer.

Patience is a virtue if you want to grow these fish from fry to adults. A one-inch fish will take three to four years to start spawning. Some people think Frontosa are hard to spawn, WRONG! But if you have the fish for three years and it still hasn't spawned, that's normal. If you choose to get rid of them at that time, you're a fool. The aquarist who picks them up will have breeders for the next ten years easy! If you do decide to grow them up, think down the road.Cyphotilapia frontosa ''Burundi'' with spotty stripes Will you have a tank of 75 gallons or larger? Are you interested in them breeding? If the answer is yes, here is a suggestion. Have in mind a 125 gallon tank, they are a nice size for Fronts. Purchase (beg for, steal, blackmail) 12 fish. Look for fish that you can verify that their parents are wild or of different breeding stock. Look for fry that have no bad stripes, large white dots on the top of the stripes are undesirable in the hobby. However, small white dots on the top of the stripe in Mpimbwe's and Zaire's are possible and grow out as they get larger. This defect does not grow out of the Burundi and some of the other varieties. Fish with bad stripes do pop up from wild stock, however.

Of these fry you have a good chance of having 5-7 females. As time goes by, the largest one in the group will be a male, get rid of him. Do this about every six months to about four fish. This will probably rid you of all or most of your males. At three to four years the fish will start reaching sexual maturity and you may be able to sex the last few big ones by checking their tubes or by just by watching their behavior. Even if they have already begun spawning, chances are the eggs are not fertile as the male takes longer to mature. (ladies fill in your rip on men here).

Why do this? By getting rid of the males you can introduce a male from different stock and have fine looking robust fry with few deformities. Most new hobbyists learn F1 and you can't get it out of their thick skulls. It's an easy thing to learn but people don't use it to their advantage. If you buy F1's that's fine, but if you breed brother to sister, then you will want to introduce new blood when they grow up. If you don't, chances are the fry will not be too desirable. F3 works great if you mix the blood! Big males are out there for sale, even wild ones, make them the stud of your colony. You only need one male, and this allows you to have about six females. You will be churning out Fronts.

Cyphotilapia frontosa ''Mpimbwe''When your females start to spawn (they are mouthbrooders), DON'T STRIP THEIR EGGS!! I understand you have been waiting all this time and you are excited about having fry, relax. This will pay off, trust me. The females need to learn to hold. The first time you take the eggs of young Fronts should be four weeks. They normally hold for about five weeks. Try not to tempt the female with brine shrimp, and feed at the opposite side of the tank that she is on. The fry can be put in their own tank or be put in a breeder basket (Lustar is the best).

Anyone who has kept Fronts over a couple inches will tell you that they are very mellow fish. That is, mellow until they freak out. They move at a snail's pace until they are scared and then they have a burst of speed. Works great in the lake, not in the aquarium. They bash their heads and scrape their sides on any sharp object they can find. Hiding places work great in a Front tanks, make sure they are not sharp.

Now that you are breeding your Fronts and they are holding without spitting, it's time to make a decision. Remove the female and put her into her own brooding tank or strip the fry. In Europe, removing the female is the standard, and can be a very rewarding experience. If you are short on tank space (everyone raise their hand), strip the eggs near the end of term. For Fronts the end of term is around five weeks! Don't strip at a point where you need a egg tumbler. Have patience, you will be rewarded. Three to four weeks allows you to remove the fry and not need anything but a breeder basket. If you believe in imprinting in fish (it is proven in other animals), you have to suspect that the fry will grow up to be better holders themselves. Have you ever owned, or have known someone with fish that won't hold? Ever wonder why?

Begin feeding the fry BEFORE the yolk sac disappears. The fry will eat and they will grow larger faster. Baby brine shrimp is the best, crushed flake will do. The eggs are huge and so are the fry. I have heard of up to seventy fry being held. I have seen up to fifty. They look like miniature adults but cuter. I hate to say they look cute, but they do. Cyphotilapia frontosa ''Mpimbwe''Forty gallon breeders work great for grow up tanks. A powerhead in the tank seems to make then exercise more and they grow faster. Feed frozen or live foods when they are big enough and you will not be disappointed. Selling size usually starts at 1 ¼". If you like to have a fish that pays for your habit, breed Frontosas. They will pay for your other tanks of rare brown and silver fish. However, don't do Frontosa because they can make money. If you think you of the time spent, you would be much better off serving fries part time. You will also be bored and probably quit the hobby. Breed fish you enjoy and the little money you MIGHT earn will seem like icing on the cake!

As most hobbyists get more experienced, they start to kick around the idea of getting wild fish. They hear the horror stories, fish dead on arrival, fish that aren't sexed correctly, etc. This can happen, if you don't know the importer it's more likely to happen. There are a few ways to lessen the chance of this happening. First, know the seller. Is he someone new on the scene or has he been around the block? Talk to people who have bought fish from him. Take advice from people who have not bought fish from that seller with a grain of salt. Ask for references if you can't find any information on the seller. Too often newcomers are concerned about price. Guys, Frontosa are not an investment, buy stocks if this is your thing. What is the chance that you can have a conversation with him in person if there is a problem. Usually these guys don't show up at fish shows either.

Why bring this up? I love wild fish. They look good after they have had some time to settle down, and breed almost immediately. You also have an endless supply of new hobbyists who know nothing but that they want F1's. Now you have F1 fry for sale. It might sound like I contradicted myself from the previous article; I may have.

I will now discuss the various locations Fronts are found and their differences….

In the beginning, all the outside world knew of was the Burundi six-stripe Frontosa. From the African Cichlid explosion of the early 1970's to the present, this fish has been a staple of the Cichlid hobby. Many hobbyists, exporters, importers, and experts have come and gone; the Frontosa remains. I fully expect Frontosas to be around longer then any of us (including Ad Konnings). The Burundi Front was mostly exported due to the works of the Brichards. In their compound they are breeding them to this very day. I'm sorry to say that I have seen only Burundi pond raised fish and never wild ones. The pond raised, on the most part, have been of excellent quality. They have very high bodies, nice stripes, and good amounts of blue on the fish makes them highly desirable. I can imagine that the wild specimens are even better! Unfortunately inbreeding has made these fish not quite as good as their wild brethren. They do not have the high bodies that seem to make the fish that more regal. The Burundi may not be the bluest of the Fronts but they have some of the biggest heads. The frontal gibbosity on the big, old, dominant males are enormous. Anyone who has seen a foot long Burundi can attest to their grandeur. What a fish! The Tanzanian six stripe looks identical, but don't cross breed them with the Burundi. You will be disappointed with the slanted stripes of the juveniles. Luckily for some breeders, not too many of these fish are exported to the U.S.

At Kigoma, Tanzania is a unique Front. Nicknamed the seven-stripe, Cyphotilapia frontosa ''Kigoma''this fish is highly prized by breeders in the know. Their seventh stripe is only a patch on the face, not really a stripe; making them easily recognizable without the need for counting. The hump is as big as the two previous species but they have more blue and nice gold accents in the dorsal fin. They may be a little harder to breed but the spawns are generally larger. The trend now is the Blue types, but the Kigoma is one of the tops in my book.

Also along Tanzania is the Kipili Frontosa. If anyone has seen it alive, please let me know. I have heard of none in the U.S. at this time. Aquarist Samuel Li of Hong Kong, has told me that it is a nice fish with a bit of blue but nothing like the blue of some of the other variants.

The next Frontosa is the Zambian blue, or blue face. This fish is nice in that it doesn't get real dark like the previous ones can. It has nice contrast between the black and white stripes. It has some nice blue in the face and the stripe on the head seems to fade above the eye. Only drawback seems that it doesn't breed as easily. They are much more popular in Europe then the U.S.

Samazi is a variety that has been out for the hobbyist for only a few years. The males have a very nice blue and are high bodied fish. The females on the other hand don't have much blue at all. This fish is difficult to breed, as I understand from several sources. I have also heard that the fry grow up slowly in size. I have not seen fry in person however, to confirm this.

When the Congo was Zaire, a fervor broke out when the Zaire Blue Frontosa was discovered. The Zaire blue is the bluest of the blues, some would even say purple. The stripe on the head runs between the eyes and down the gill plate. There seems to be two of the blue types. One has blue dots on the inteorbital stripe and the other does not. Then it seems that there are degrees of one to the other. Some don't seem blue as others (This can be influenced by a dark or black substrate and a dark background). Some in a group can be solid blue, while others are not. There may be Cyphotilapia frontosa ''Zaire Blue''a range where these fish are found and there is some color variation along the range. We have seen this in some Tropheus variants. Or there are some actual locations. No one can be really sure because these locations seem to be shrouded in some secrecy. One thing that all Zaire blue's have in common, they won't hold their eggs well. If someone is telling you that they are breeding Zaire blues with much regularity, buyer beware! I can rattle off a dozen breeders who have or have had the fish and it is always the same story; the females lose the eggs. These are wild fish, too. No one is really sure why it happens. Maybe it's because they are the best looking and the Frontosa god has played a joke on us. Some have guessed that it is the infertility of the males as these fish are found in very deep water. Could they have been decompressed too fast and the males have damaged reproductive organs? Aquarist Lee McLeod, told me he was having problems with his wild colony holding eggs. He decided to try a little informal experiment. He took a good breeding six stripe female and put her into the Zaire colony. The result: she held the first time with a healthy spawn. It was not the male's fault at all. Is it something about the wild females? Is it something we are not supplying that the fish needs? I have been raising a small group of tank raised fish for almost four years. I can't wait to see if this problem resolves itself with the tank-raised fry. Oh, by the way, there is supposed to be a regular Burundi looking type Frontosa that comes out of Zaire, too.

The Kavalla is a rare fish in the hobby. It has six regular stripes but also has a yellow dorsal fin. That dorsal fin also contains rainbow sheen when viewed at certain angles. I didn't believe it until I saw it for myself. This fish was just imported too few of times to have really made an impact here.

Lastly, the Mpimbwe has graced us. This fish is unique. It has nice blue with the dominant male looking the best. It can be dark at times with mood changes. The color is not what really makes it unique though. This fish is crazy. People who have kept multiple types of Fronts will tell you that it must be part Tropheus. I can grab them with my hand, take them out of the water, accidentally drop them, put them back into the tank, and they still come up to my hand to feed. They are just much more active then the other Fronts. Not only this but, they are good holders too. They are highly recommended.

Altolamprologus calvus

Altolamprologus calvus
General:
Altolamprologus calvus is discovered Tanganyikan fish, first typed by Poll in 1988. This slender predator's unique compressed shape and somewhat menacing appearance has made it a popular fish for cichlid enthusiasts.

While not difficult to keep, Altolamprologus calvus can be a challenge to breed for the novice. This is a very slow-growing species; allow at least two years to get them from a one-inch size to your first spawn. Additionally, this fish requires a unique spawning area. See the breeding section below for more details.

A number of color variants of Altolamprologus calvus are available in the hobby. The most popular, the "black" variety (sometimes called Pearly) is pictured above. Other varieties include white and orange. I have also heard of a zebra type, but have not personally seen i
Altolamprologus calvus is a cichlid endemic to the southern shoreline of Lake Tanganyika in eastern Africa. The species has an extremely laterally compressed body and a high dorsal fin. Males may grow to 13 cm (5 inches), while females are normally smaller.

It is physically similar to its close relative A. compressiceps, though it is less deep-bodied and has a longer snout.

A. calvus is commonly kept as an aquarium fish in setups devoted to East African fish. Several local variants exist, and some may prove to be distinct species or subspecies. Examples include:

* 'Black Sambia'
* 'Black Pectoral'
* 'Black Zaire'
* 'Gold'
* 'White'
Calvus Cong Black

Calvus Yellow

Calvus Chaitika White


calvus Black Zaire
calvus Black Zaire


Siyah Calvus




calvus-gold-nkamba


There are several morphological varieties of Alto. calvus: black, white, yellow, and even zebra, which looks a lot like a white version of Alto. compressiceps. The black calvus is found at several different locations in Lake Tanganyika, although the populations from Zambia and Moliro have been more heavily exploited for the cichlid hobby. The one shown here is a wild-caught male from Moliro. The white variety (pictured below) is found exclusively at Chaitika.
Before I say anything more about this fish, I should note that this first photograph is not a fair representation of a black calvus. A black calvus really belongs over a dark substrate, and this photo was snapped while the fish was over a white substratum. When kept over a dark sand, it will turn very dark and its white spots will sparkle and glow. The stripes of the White Calvus are less apparent when kept over a light substrate, but stripes and spots become more apparent when kept over a dark substratum. The white calvus differs markedly from the black variety in that its spots extend all along the ventral fins.
Alto. calvus is characterized by a laterally compressed body, a steep sloping forehead, stripes that are more apparent on the head and collar region, and brilliant white spots that decorate the posterior two-thirds of their flanks. Adult males can attain maximum lengths of six inches, while females max out at around four inches. Once mature, males are also higher-bodied and possess more elongated fins.
Alto. calvus is a predator, and specializes in snatching young cichlids and invertebrates from between rock crevices and rock piles. Their laterally compressed body not only helps them in avoiding detection, but permits them to go into narrow crevices, turning their bodies at odd angles if needed. Small fishes, such as juveniles and shell-dwellers, should not be kept in the same tank with this fish as the calvus may dine on them.
When hunting, Alto. calvus will cruise along the substrate looking for prey. Once a target has been identified, this fish will keep its eye locked on the prey, but raises its body upwards and then strikes. This hunting technique is similar to Dimidiochromis compressiceps, which is another laterally compressed predator.
In the aquarium, they can be given any type of live or frozen food (except beef heart or any other food containing mammalian products). Live food is always greedily consumed. Flake food is accepted, but is usually insufficient alone to bring a female into breeding condition.
Calvus make a great addition to most any Tanganyikan community setup, barring a setup with shell dwellers. They can also be kept with many of the fishes from Lakes Malawi and Victoria, provided the latter also require a high protein diet. Mbuna are not ideal tankmates for this reason.
They make a great addition to many setups because they tend to mind their own business, but can certainly hold their own. The thick scales of "Altolamps" give them an efficient protection against attacks by fry-guarding cichlids. I have read that when attacked, they will bend their bodies so as to expose their scales to an enemy, which will easily fray the lips of an enemy when bitten.
Calvus looks particularly menacing, but is rather mild. They are not territorial and not aggressive towards other cichlids of similar size. In fact, this male will often poke his head into part of the holey rock in my tank, pretending that no one can see him because he can't see them! When introducing an "Altolamp" to your aquarium, don't be alarmed if it hides for several weeks before it becomes comfortable with its surroundings. Just be patient and ensure good water quality. Don't overfeed in your anxiety that it eat; this will only degrade water conditions and cause other cichlids in the tank to become more susceptible to Bloat.
Altolamprologus species are substrate spawners. It is not uncommon to miss this fish spawning, as it is a very secretive spawner. Spawning takes place in a cave, shell, or flowerpot too small for the male to enter. The male will release his milt at the entrance. Both the male and female will then fan their fins to direct it to the eggs, which have been dropped on the substrate. Typical spawns may number as many as 200. Females can spawn every 25-35 days when kept in condition. The eggs take more than a week before they hatch and are mature enough to move out on their own. The fry are quite large, but require a very long time to grow to maturity. For example, it may take six months or more for an "Altolamp" to reach 1.5 inches.
All Altolamprologus species operate alone, although several Altolamprologus can be kept in the same tank. Personally, I have not kept more than one variety of "Altolamp" in any one tank, although there are some out there who purport that different species and color morphs of Altolamprologus can be kept and bred in the same aquarium. Notwithstanding, there are probably just as many, if not more, who would discourage it. They are best kept and bred as pairs, but can also be kept as a colony.
Habitat:

Altolamprologus calvus is always found in association with rocky areas, particulary the reef-like structures in the lake.
Care:

Altolamprologus calvus can easily be kept in a 15-20 gallon tank and is not aggressive towards con-specifics. Like all Tanganyikans, it appreciates hard, clean water.
weekly, 50% water changes during my grow-out stage with no problems. Altolamprologus calvus can be sensitive to abrupt temperature changes, so make sure that your replacement water is consistent with what is in the tank. keep fish at 78F.
Feeding:

Altolamprologus calvus is a specialized predator, feeding on eggs, fry and young fish on the reef. The laterally compressed body of this fish allow it to penetrate tight crevaces and extract their prey hiding within. The large mouth is rapidly opened and the enormous suction produced draws in the prey forcefully.

Fortunately, in the aquarium, they will take a variety of high-protein foods. fed brine shrimp and earthworm flakes, New Life Spectrum and Aquadyne duraflakes.

Don't get frustrated if your fish do not grow quickly; this species just doesn't get big fast!
Breeding:

Altolamprologus calvus isn't hard to breed, but you do need to make sure your fish are sexually mature and have the right place to lay eggs. While they are growing, you can keep

You can sex Altolamprologus calvus by size. Males are about one-third larger than females. I suggest starting with four to five fry or juvenile fish and growing them up in a twenty-gallon tank.

After two years or 2.5" for the female, pair formation will begin. Look for a small fish and large fish that like to stay together. At this point, it's a good idea to remove the other fish, although I have had successful spawns with unpaired calvus in the tank. If you have any plecos in the tank, it would be a good idea to remove them as they may eat the eggs.

Altolamprologus calvus likes to spawn in tight confines. In one of Pam Chin's columns, she recommended using shells. However, GCCA members who has successfully spawned this fish recommend Boester Bells named after Rick and Monica Boester who have sold many of these for breeding dwarf bristlenose plecos. These tapered, ceramic cones seem to appeal to the fish and worked for great for me.

The female will enter the Boester Bell and lay the eggs. The male, if he's not too big, will enter the mouth or stay near the entrance and wash his milt over the eggs. Young pairs will lay about 75 eggs. Larger pairs will lay over 200 eggs.

The female will stay inside fanning the eggs and protecting them while the male patrols outside. They are very good parents.

It's certainly possible to raise the fry in the parent tank, but I removed the Boester Bell one week post-hatch when the fry were are almost free swimming to a five gallon grow-out tank containing gravel and a seasoned sponge filter.

The fry of Altolamprologus calvus are bottom huggers. For this reason, you will need to pay extra attention to water quality as extra food can quickly foul the substrate. I fed a mixture of Cyclops-eeze, Hikari First Start, and finely ground earthworm and brine shrimp flakes.

Flower Horn Fish

Flower Horn Fish is basically from the Cichlid family, which is classified under the genus of Cichlasoma, which is commonly found in South America. This beautiful hybrid is thought to be the end product of cross breeding between the Cichlasoma Trimaculatus, Cichlasoma Festae, Jingang Blood Parrot. To date, many of the better quality Flower Horn have been produced due to the intensified eagerness of breeders to produce the best show quality fish for the market.


As stated in some reports, the Flower Horn Fish is also known as a "mutated" breed of fish. Rest assured that this is just a claim. Flower Horn Fish have gone through intense selective cross breeding in order to have the best characteristics of the respective strains of the Cichlid Fish family. For instance, most breeders are striving to produce Flower Horn with a bigger nuchal hump on the forehead, better coloration, bolder black marking on the body (which at times resembles Chinese characters), more elegant fins, and wider body. No chemicals, or bio-genetic engineering have been incorporated to improve on the traits / characteristics of the Flower Horn. Thus, the claim that this is a mutated fish is unfounded.

In addition, this fish is very hardy, and can endure water conditions that are not suitable for most breeds of aquarium fish. This is also part of the reason why the Flower Horn is well received by many tropical fish hobbyists. But the ideal pH level in the water required, should be around pH 7 to pH 7.8 with water temperature ranging between 27 to 32C. For temperate / colder climate regions, they just need a water heater.


The Flower Horn is from the South American Cichlid family, and this fish is very territorial. They are also very aggressive in nature. Co-existing with other fish is not advisable, especially smaller fish. Some parties have claimed that we can "play" with the Flower Horn. In actual fact, Flower Horn is actually trying to get rid of the "intruder" (be it a stick or a person's hand). Therefore, it is advisable that we keep our hands to ourselves as the fish has quite a nasty bite depending on the size of the fish.

Here are some varieties of Flower Horn
Zhen Zhu = RD and BD

JK = Golden FH

Kamfas = Synsphillium or Parrot x ZZ


ZZ = Zhen Zhu

RD = Red Dragon

POTO = Pearl of the Orient

RC = Red Crystal

RG = Red General

SDK = Super Dragon King

RPD = Red Pearl Dragon

TB = Tunder Bolt

SP = Super Pendian

RD = Rainbow Dragon

FD = Fiery Dragon

BD = Blue Dragon

BCD = Blue Comet Dragon

DBD = Diamond Blue Dragon

BFD = Blue Face Dragon

KB = King Baccara

EM = Eastern Maiden

OGD = Oriental Green Dragon

GFF = Golden Fire Face


KAMFA

SRS = Super Red Shock

RM = Red Monkey

RS = Red Shock

JH = Jin Hua

RK = Red Kamfa

OK = Orange Kamfa

OP = Oriental Phoenix

RP = Red Phoenix

RBK = Rainbow King

HBK = Hell Boy Kamfa = Eastern Maiden X KKP

Buffalo = KKP+ RD = Kamfa bred by 65rivi


PARROT

BP = Blood Parrot

KKP = King Kong Parrot

Mammon = High Quality King Kong Parrot (Happy Breed Farm)

Darmo = High Quality King Kong Parrot (Rarefish)

DD2 = Desert Dynasty II
CGY = Colorful God of the Year
GD = Golden Dragon
JPG = Jing Ping Guo
JG = Jaded Griffin
KDC = Kimdingchu

Golden Monkey ALSO called KAMALAU
Kamalau is a Cantonese term which is the same as GM. In Malaysia, Singapore & Indonesia, this term is commonly use among hobbyists.

GM = Golden Monkey

KGM = King of Golden Monkey

MGM = Marine Golden Monkey

MK = Metallic Kamalau

BKM = Blue King Monkey

DM = Diamond Monkey

KGM1 = King of Golden Monkey Generation 1

KGM2 = King of Golden Monkey Generation 2

KGMF = King of Golden Monkey Flowerness

SML = SonMalau = New Generation GM

Diff b/w kamfa and ZZ
1.KAMFA

















2.ZZ(Zhen Zou)


Sexing of FH.
#Age and length
2 months
(1mm - 30mm) .

#Characteristic
1. Juvenile stage.
2. Colors and body patterns are not noticeable.

#Sexing Method
No known method.
Observations shows larger sized fish within the same batch tend to be males.

#Age and length
2 - 5 months
( 30 mm - 150 mm)

Characteristic
Colors and body patterns are becoming more distinctive

#Sexing Method
1. Distinctive black marking on the dorsal fin indicates that it is a female. However, this is not foolproof. The same pattern does exist on some male Flowerhorns.

2. Observations on the shape of the genital papillae. V-shaped papilla indicates a male fish, while a U-shaped papilla indicates a female fish. Gently squeezing the abdominal region may reveal the papillae.

3. Male Flowerhorns will have broader body with higher dorsal, anal and caudal fins. It is also observed that male Flowerhorns will have thicker jawline and more distinctive body color.


#Age and length
5 months and above
(150 mm - 600 mm)


#Characteristic
Flowerhorns begin to mature. Distinctive and rather prominent head humps are visible on the male fish.

#Sexing Method
Female will start to lay eggs even without the presence of a male.


Some more characteristics to be observed.

#1 dorsal black spot:

flowerhorns are hybrids,therefore this method will not be 100%accurate.this method is usally use on pure bred cichlid
however the rest of the method we are going to talk about here will not apply to fries under 3 in therefore this one is included.

90%of fry with out dorsal spots,will be males.
60% of fry with dorsal spot will be females.

#2 body structure.

male flowerhorn often have more angular and muscular lines ,while females often have a rounder,smoother body line.

#3 Dorsal spine method.

look at the first 6 dorsal spines of your fh, males often have rounded and thick spines, while females have a more flatened and thiner look to the first 6 dorsal spines.

#4 pelvic fin and pelvic spine method.

female flowerhorn need to use their pelvic fin as a fan to fan the eggs while breeding,therefore when you touch the pelvic fin and pelvic spine of your fh,if it is soft,and the spine is not as hard that will make you bleed,your fish is highly possible to be a female.

#5 chest line(chin line) method.

if you view your fish from the side,behind the gill jucture and before the pelvic fin,right under the petoral fin,this is the chest of your fish,if your fish have a bulkier chest,the it is more possible to be male,females often have a smaller,and smoother chest(unlike human)...lol

#6 anal venting method.

hold your fish upsidedown,look at the anal vent,males have a V shape and females have a U shape.
now look from the side,males should have their tube pointed toward the back ,while females have straight tubes
Male organism


Female Organism




Source of Sexing of fh : FLOWERHORNUSA,AROFANATICS

Common Flowerhorn Diseases and Treatment

Caring for your Flower Horn is not just about feeding it, it's also about watching for potentially serious health conditions. Below are some of the problems your Flower horn might experience.

White Spot Disease

Cause and Symptoms

* The cause of this condition is Ichthyophithirius multifilis (ICH ) , a ciliated protozoan .
* Bad water quality can increase the likelihood that your fish will be victim to this parasite.
* Low water temperatures (< 25°C) are ideal breeding grounds for ICH.
* The most common way Flower horns get ICH is when they are fed live or frozen food that has already been contaminated with the parasite.
* The most prominent symptom of this condition are the pure white spots that will appear all over your fish. You may also notice the fins are clumped together, and they act a bit more lethargic than usual. Moreover, it's common for them to lose interest in food when ICH infects.

Treatment

The parasites resides under the skin of the fish, hence it is not affected by water treatment or direct treatment applied to the fish . Break the breeding cycle of Ich by washing the tank thoroughly to remove the cysts of the parasite. Keep in mind that this is a highly contagious condition, so your entire aquarium must be treated.

To cure white spots:

* Place Kordon Ich inhibitor in your tank.
* Add aquarium salt at 3g/l of water every 3 days together with the medication.
* After 3rd day, tank must be washed thoroughly to eliminate the causative agent.
* Add Kordon Malachite Green treatment to your tank.

Preventive measures:

* Add Kordon Prevent Ich Fish Disease Inhibitor and Preventative to your tank.
* Quarantine new fish for three to four weeks.
* Avoid cross-tank contamination.

Hole-In-The-Head Disease

Cause and Symptoms

* The cause of this condition is Hexamita Protozoa , parasitic organisms that are highly contagious.
* These parasites thrive with poor water quality management.
* If your fish has this condition, you will notice the appearance of small pits and pimples mainly on the fish's head. These pits will simply grow and form bigger pits.
* The pits are white in color, and sometimes mucous are visible around them.
* In addition to losing weight, becoming lethargic, and losing their appetites, the fish will produce white, stringy feces.

Treatment

* Add Dimetrydazole (5mg/l) or Metronidazole (7mg/l).
* Repeat treatment once every 3 days.
* Do a 20%-30% water change.
* It is sometimes necessary to inject Metronidazole, but injections near the affected area should be attempt only by qualified personnel.

Preventive measures :

* Change your water regularly.
* Quarantine new fish for three to four weeks.
* Avoid cross-tank contamination.

Mouth, body and tail fungus

Causes & Symptoms

* This condition is caused by Saproglenia and other related bacteria.
* Bad water quality only causes these kinds of bacteria to thrive.
* Sudden changes in the water condition can also cause this condition in your fish.
* If your fish has this condition, you will notice cotton like tufts at the mouth, body, fin and tail.
* You may also notice your fish losing weight.

Treatment

* Add Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Aquarium Salt to your tank.
* Adding Jungle Labs Fungus Eliminator will also help.
* Be sure to treat the whole tank, but quarantine the most seriously ill fish.

Preventive measures :

* Change your water regularly.
* Quarantine new fish for three to four weeks.
* Avoid cross-tank contamination.

Dropsy

Causes & Symptoms

* This condition is caused by a bacterial infection.
* Poor water quality, overcrowding, and stress can make your fish more susceptible to this condition.
* If your fish is affected, he may appear bloated and stop eating

Treatment

· Do not add aquarium salt to your tank.

· Use a commercially prepared treatment available at your local pet shop.

Preventive measures :

* Change your water regularly.
* Quarantine new fish for three to four weeks to avoid the introduction of new, dangerous bacteria.
* Avoid cross-tank contamination.

Fin & Tail Rot Disease

Causes & Symptoms

* This condition is caused by Pseudomonas and other related bacteria.
* Poor water quality causes these bacteria to thrive in your tank.
* If your fish is affected, the fin and tail appeared eaten away and white edged. You may even notice the fin or tail beginning to literally dissolve.
* The color of the fish may dull, and the fins may clump together.
* This bacteria is highly contagious.

Treatment

* Treat the whole tank, but quarantine and treat the heavily infected fish.
* Tetracycline should be added.

Preventive measures :

* Change your water regularly.
* Quarantine new fish for three to four weeks.
* Avoid cross-tank contamination.

Air Bladder Disease

Causes & Symptoms

* This condition is caused by a number of things, but the most likely problems are a virus or a bacterial infection.
* If your fish has this condition, you may notice they have trouble swimming correctly, or they tend to swim upside down.

Treatment

* Because it can be hard to determine the cause of this problem, it can also be difficult to treat it, but in general, an antibiotic agent should take care of the problem.

Preventive measures :

* Change your water regularly.
* Quarantine new fish for three to four weeks.
* Avoid cross-tank contamination.

Velvet Disease

Causes & Symptoms

* This condition is caused by a fungus living in your tank.
* Poor water quality causes this fungus to thrive in your tank.
* If your fish is affected, he may stop swimming, and he may begin to look ill.

Treatment

· Add Copper Sulfate (Blue Crystal) to your tank. Be sure to use the ratio of 1 g Copper Sulfate and 0.25g Citric Acid to 1 litre of distilled water. Dosage instructions: 12.5 ml to 10 litres of aquarium water for 10 days. Administer half of this on days three, five and seven.

Preventive measures :

* Change your water regularly.
* Quarantine new fish for three to four weeks.
* Avoid cross-tank contamination.


Ammonia and the Nitrogen Cycle
With some fish, high ammonia levels are a horrible problem. It is astonishing, though, that Flowerhorn fish have good tolerance towards high ammonia levels in a water system. However, in order to optimize your Flowerhorn's potentials and beauty, good water quality management is essential. The nitrogen cycle is a big part of water quality management, and understanding it will truly help increase the success level of your tank.

All organisms excrete ammonia as waste. Proper waste management is crucial in order to maintain a healthy living environment. In aquatic environments, aquatic organisms excrete ammonia into their own living system. The nitrogen cycle takes place throughout a mature system in a man-made tank. In this environment, nitrogen products are recycled by different colonies of beneficial bacteria into different forms. The highly toxic forms of these nitrogen products are ammonia and nitrite.


In a matured fish tank system with a well circulating nitrogen cycle, many other toxins, mainly ammonia, are converted into harmless nitrate, nitrous oxide and nitrogen gas. This cycle will make sure that the nitrogen level in the water is in check, hence, maintaining it below the toxic level in your fish tank.

Normally, in a newly set up tank, the nitrogen cycle may not yet be mature, which means it may not be a complete one. There will be a surge of ammonia and nitrite in the water system (New Tank Syndrome) mainly due to amount of food the fish are fed and the wastes that are produced. This may cause your Flowerhorn to die if the ammonia level in the tank reaches the toxicity point. This is commonly known as ammonia poisoning. For a new tank, frequent water changes (partial wayer changes) are advisable even if there is a proper bio filtration system in your new tank. It normally takes about 1-2 month's time for the cycle to stabilize, then less frequent water changes are necessary.


While the surge of ammonia in your tank is a problem for your fish, it will encourage the growth of nitrifying bacteria, Nitrosomonas sp., to process the ammonia into less toxic nitrite. The resulting surge in nitrite will encourage yet another group of nitrifying bacteria, Nitrobacter sp . to convert them to even less toxic nitrate. Nitrous oxide and nitrogen gas will then be produced with the help of other bacteria and aquatic plants. The complete nitrogen cycle will normally take 1-2 month's time to mature and fully stabilize. After this period, a healthy population of beneficial bacteria will then be able to work on harmful ammonia and nitrite in the water system. Nevertheless, the number of fish and the amount of food given to those fish is an important factor in contributing the amount of ammonia in a system. Too much food will be a problem for you fish. Moreover, you must be moderate when it comes to the cleaning of your bio-media filters. If your system is too clean, the beneficial bacteria will be eliminated. Partial water change and constant removal of excess food and solid waste from the filters are crucial to the health of your tank.


Deworming
Deworming is basically an preventive measure to get rid of some common worms/bacteria/pasasites. Starving the fh once in a week is good. Apart from starvation, deworming can b carried out as follows..


Metronidazole, main ingredient of Metrogyl tablet, is best fed thru food than thru tank water. Also, under normal circumstances, fish will readily accept it thru food. Plus, by feeding metro thru food, we r preventing the nitrogen cycle from being wiped out.
Same with the other antibiotics like Terramycin (Ingredient- Oxytetracycline)



Metrogyl/Flagyl - for intestinal parasites/bacteria - One treatment of 3 days once in 3 months.


Terramycin - for gram-negative bacteria and columnaris virus - One treatment of 3 days once in 3 months.


Potassium Permagnate - as a 5 second bath - for most external parasites and worms - Once in a month (BE CAREFUL!!!)


Common salt - as long duration bath - as general tonic and stressbuster
as half an hour bath in concentrated solution - to get rid of ich - Once in a month.


Epsom salt - as laxative Once in 3 months.

Metrogyl treatment and Terramycin treatment is separated by at least a month. Other treatments can be carried out along with Metro/Terramycin treatment. Epsom salt treatment works great with Metrogyl treatment.

Note: This deworming procedure, suggested by our fh professor cum lover-Girish Bhai.
Common traits of a gud Fh
# Body Shape
Body of the flower horn fish should be thick and oval. Some new variants being almost round. Stomach should be full and not tucked in.

# Coloration
Most flower horn fish, red is predominant from cheek to abdominal region. However, its background colors would do well to complement the red highlighs.

# Black Horizontal Markings (flowerline)
It will be ideal if the flower horn fish has a strong and thick black horizontal marking on its body. However, be aware that not all flower horns has this criteria. We should look at the overall of the fish.

# Head
Irregardless of shape, size and coloration, a good nuchal hump is preferable. It will be ideal if the nuchal hump is proportionate to the size and shape of the fish.

# Eyes
Positioned on the sides of its head. Eyeballs and the eye linings should be alert and distinct respectively.


7) Tail & Fins
The tail and fins should stay erect most of the time.

Source: WORLD CICHLIDS

Cichlid....

The cichlids are a large family of fishes, comprising more than a thousand species. Most of those popular in the hobby are found in Central and South America, and Africa. There is great variation in body shape and size across the family. Many cichlids practice parental care of the eggs and fry, and are popular for their interesting behaviour as well as their visual appeal

Cichlids are classified as following.
1.Malawi Cichlids
2.Tanganyika Cichlids
3.Dwarf Cichlids
4.American Cichlids

Others
cichlids, malawi, tanganyika, mbuna, pseudotropheus, metraclima, labidochromis, julidochromis, neolamprologus, iodotropheus, melanochromis, pterophyllum, angelfish, oscar, firemouth, convict, community, rift, valley, great, lake, south, central, american, east, west, african

Here some Variates of cichlids.

Julidochromis-regani

Length to 15 cm. The body is ordered, in front half in the section of almost cylindrical form. Body from the tender- the yellow to the yellowish- brown color, with 4 longitudinal strips from the dark brown to the black color. Upper goes from the head to the bottom of last rays spinal fin, the 2nd - from the upper edge of eye to the upper part of the base tailed fin, 3- I - from the upper lip to the small transverse strip to the tailed fin, the 4th - from the angle of mouth to the lower part of the base tailed fin, it is well visible only in old copies. the spinal fin of yellowish to the dark brown color with the bluish border, anal fin is dark with the black border, under which go blue strip, tailed fin with the vertical black strips and the black border, under which goes blue strip. Female is larger than the male. Fishes are territorial, frequently aggressive with respect to the fishes of their form, but they get along with the fishes of other forms, are held in the average and lower layers waters. The pairs of fishes, which were being formed from the small flock of young (10-12 small fishes), can be contained in the common aquarium with length from 120 cm. Water: 24-27 °C, dH 8-20°, pH7,2-8,5, transparent, regular substitution two times a week are 5th 10% of volume become fresher, with the same parameters. Aeration, the filtration (it is desirable mechanical- biological filter). Fodder: living, substitutes. Spawning aquarium with a length of from 70 cm with the caves and the structures from the stone with the vertical slots. Water is aquarium. The spawning of pair replanted into spawning of aquarium they stimulate by small increase in the temperature (26-28 °C) and by addition of fresh water. Fishes are multiplied in the cave, in which the female puts aside usually 50-100 (in the rare cases to 300 pieces) the roe corns, after which the female usually cares, and male guards territory. At this time it is necessary to give in immediate proximity to the fishes of sterns from the shelter. The incubative period of 3-4 days, and in 4-5 more days fry spread in search of the fodder. Fry are held in the territory of parents, with the danger and on the night they hide in the slot between the stones and into the cave. When fishes begin to be prepared for the following spawning, they drive off fry and it is possible how to reseat them into the separate aquarium, so also to leave, then in the aquarium fry from several spawnings will float. Sexual maturity in 10-14 months.

Julidochromis omatus

Male with length to 8 cm. The body is ordere. Body whitish- is yellow to the golden, with 3 longitudinal black- brown strips. Upper goes along the base spinal fin, average - from the snout to the upper part of the base tailed fin and lower - from the end of the snout through lower half of eye and further along the collateral line to tailed fin. Tailed fin is large black spot in base. Fishes are territorial, aggressive with respect to the fishes of their form, but they get along with the fishes of other forms, are held in the average and lower layers waters. The pair of fishes, which was being formed from the small flock of young (6-8 small fishes), can be contained in the common aquarium with length from 80 cm. The construction from the stones, the generatrix of cave and slot, must be isolated by the pilings up of stones and by plants; moreover a quantity of caves must be more than the number of pairs of fishes. Water: 24-27 °C, dH 8-20°, pH7,2-8,5, transparent, regular substitution two times a week are 5th 10% of volume become fresher, with the same parameters. Aeration, the filtration (it is desirable mechanical- biological filter). Fodder: living, substitutes. Spawning aquarium with a length of from 60 cm with the caves and the structures from the stone with the vertical slots. Water is aquarium. The spawning of pair replanted into spawning of aquarium they stimulate by small increase in the temperature (26-28 °C) and by addition of fresh water. Fishes are multiplied in the cave, in which the female puts aside usually 10-50 (in the rare cases to 100 pieces) the greenish roe corns, after which the female usually cares, and male guards territory. At this time it is necessary to give in immediate proximity to the fishes of sterns from the shelter. The incubative period of 3-4 days, and in 5-8 more days fry spread in search of the fodder. Fry are held in the territory of parents, with the danger and on the night they hide in the slot between the stones and into the cave. When fishes begin to be prepared for the following spawning, they drive off fry and it is possible how to reseat them into the separate aquarium, so also to leave, then in the aquarium fry from several spawnings will float. Sexual maturity in 7-8 months.
Julidochromis-transcriptus

Length to 7 cm. The body is ordered. Body is almost black, lower part - yellow. 2 longitudinal rows of yellow spots go on upper half of body. Tailed fin and spinal fin black, with the blue border. On the basis tailed fin is large black spot. Anal fin is dark, with the blue border. Fishes are territorial, aggressive with respect to the fishes of their form, but they get along with the fishes of other forms, are held in the average and lower layers waters. The pair of fishes, which was being formed from the small flock of young (6-8 small fishes), can be contained in the common aquarium with length from 80 cm. The construction from the stones, the generatrix of cave and slot, must be isolated by the pilings up of stones and by plants; moreover a quantity of caves must be more than the number of pairs of fishes. Water: 24-27 °C, dH 8-20°, pH7,2-8,5, transparent, regular substitution two times a week are 5th 10% of volume become fresher, with the same parameters. Aeration, the filtration (it is desirable mechanical- biological filter). Fodder: living, substitutes. Spawning aquarium with a length of from 60 cm with the caves and the structures from the stone with the vertical slots. Water is aquarium. The spawning of pair replanted into spawning of aquarium they stimulate by small increase in the temperature (26-28 °C) and by addition of fresh water. Fishes are multiplied in the cave, in which the female puts aside usually 30-60 (in the rare cases to 100 pieces) the roe corns, after which the female usually cares, and male guards territory. At this time it is necessary to give in immediate proximity to the fishes of sterns from the shelter. The incubative period of 3 days, and in 5 more days fry spread in search of the fodder. Fry are held in the territory of parents, with the danger and on the night they hide in the slot between the stones and into the cave. When fishes begin to be prepared for the following spawning, they drive off fry and it is possible how to reseat them into the separate aquarium, so also to leave, then in the aquarium fry from several spawnings will float. Sexual maturity in 9-11 months.

Julidochromis-marlieri


Length to 13 cm. The body is ordered. The body is whitish, is weakly-reddish to the yellow with the reticulated figure, which form 3 longitudinal and 9-10 transverse strips of black color. Unpaired fins of the color of body with the figure from the blackish spots. Kray fins light blue with the black border. In adult male on the head fatty growth, it is less than the female, its spermiduct sharp, in female the ovipositor of dull. Fishes territorial are frequently aggressive with respect to the fishes of their form, but they get along with the fishes of other forms, are held in the average and lower layers waters. The pairs of fishes, which were being formed from the small flock of young (10-12 small fishes), can be contained in the common aquarium with length from 100 cm. The construction from the stones, the generatrix of cave and slot, must be isolated by the pilings up of stones and by plants; moreover a quantity of caves must be more than the number of fishes. Water: 24-27 °C, dH 8-20°, pH7,2-8,5, transparent, regular substitution two times a week are 5th 10% of volume become fresher, with the same parameters. Aeration, the filtration (it is desirable mechanical- biological filter). Fodder: living, substitutes. Spawning aquarium with a length of from 60 cm with the caves and the structures from the stone with the vertical slots. Water is aquarium. The spawning of pair replanted into spawning of aquarium they stimulate by small increase in the temperature (26-28 °C) and by addition of fresh water. Fishes are multiplied in the cave, in which the female puts aside usually 40-100 (in the rare cases to 200 pieces) the whitish-grey roe corns, after which the female usually cares, and male guards territory. At this time it is necessary to give in immediate proximity to the fishes of sterns from the shelter. The incubative period of 3-4 days, and after 4-6 more days fry spread in search of the fodder. Fry are held in the territory of parents, with the danger and on the night they hide in the slot between the stones and into the cave. When fishes begin to be prepared for the following spawning, they drive off fry and it is possible how to reseat them into the separate aquarium, so also to leave, then in the aquarium fry from several spawnings will float. Sexual maturity in 8-12 months.
Julidochromis-dickfeldi


Length to 11 cm. The body is ordered. Body of orange to the grey-brown, in the middle bluish by ebb, lower half with the bluish to the blackish attack. Head with the black primes and the spots. Three black longitudinal strips are passed throughout the body. Upper goes along the base spinal fin, average - from the upper edge of eye to the upper part of the base tailed fin and lower - from the end of the snout to tailed fin. Unpaired fins with the bluish specks and the narrow blue border. Between the males and the females it is difficult to find difference, males usually somewhat larger. Fishes are territorial, aggressive with respect to the fishes of their form, but they get along with the fishes of other forms, are held in the average and lower layers waters. The pair of fishes, which was being formed from the small flock of young (6-8 small fishes), it is possible to contain in the common aquarium with a length of from 80 cm, the generatrix of cave and slot, they must be isolated by the pilings up of stones and by plants; moreover a quantity of caves must be more than the number of pairs of fishes. Water: 24-27 °C, dH 8-20°, pH7,2-8,5, transparent, regular substitution two times a week are 5th 10% of volume become fresher, with the same parameters. Aeration, the filtration (it is desirable mechanical- biological filter). Fodder: living, substitutes. Spawning aquarium with a length of from 60 cm with the caves and the structures from the stone with the vertical slots. Water is aquarium. The spawning of pair replanted into spawning of aquarium they stimulate by small increase in the temperature (26-28 °C) and by addition of fresh water. Fishes are multiplied in the cave, in which the female puts aside usually 8-40 (in the rare cases to 100 pieces) unclear auger- green roe corns, after which the female usually cares, and male guards territory. At this time it is necessary to give in immediate proximity to the fishes of sterns from the shelter. The incubative period of 3 days, and after 4 more days fry spread in search of the fodder. Fry are held in the territory of parents, with the danger and on the night they hide in the slot between the stones and into the cave. When fishes begin to be prepared for the following spawning, they drive off fry and it is possible how to reseat them into the separate aquarium, so also to leave, then in the aquarium fry from several spawnings will float. Sexual maturity in 1-1,5 years